Iqama, Iqama, Iqama…

We finally got our pictures taken for the Iqama. I feel like the Iqama is the Holy Grail and we must kiss it several times when it’s finally in our hands. Without this Iqama we can’t seem to accomplish anything. In our case it’s been a pain because we can’t set up DSL at home or get a personal cell phone until we get it. Plus, all of our car and household items that were shipped over will not be cleared through customs until we get our Iqama.

So Much to Say…

Our plane from Frankfurt to Riyadh

We made it to Saudi! The flight was smooth and thankfully there were no issues with Mr. Dante “Dewey”.  An hour before landing at King Khalid International Airport I woke up and opened up my window shades on the airplane and all I could see was the vastness of the Arabian Desert. It is pretty amazing to see the sand dunes and small little towns in the middle of the dessert. I couldn't stare for long because the brightness of the sun was intense.

It’s been a little over a week since we’ve arrived and so far I’ve been pleasantly surprised. The terrain here is definitely different; a lot of sand and rocks. It’s very hot right now over 100 degrees every day. It’s sort of like being in a convection oven or in a dry sauna. At least it’s a dry heat and quite frankly it doesn’t bother me. There are days that are hazy because of the fine granules of sand in the air. On those days I breathe in the sand and taste it. The brightness of the sun here is extreme and I am making use of my sunglasses on a daily basis. Once October comes around the temperature will drop to 75-80 degrees during the day and at night we’ll have to wear a light winter jackets because it gets a bit breezy.   

The city of Riyadh is quite nice, especially downtown. Since it’s the capital of Saudi Arabia the city is kept very clean. Entertainment for the Saudis are shopping and eating, so there are tons of shops and restaurants. I have been surprised to see many American chains, such as Applebee’s, Cheesecake Factory, Dunkin Donuts, Crispy Creams, Starbucks, KFC, McDonald’s, and a few more I have forgotten. We still haven’t made it to the shopping malls, but we hear they are very nice. There’s an Ikea here and I’ve just been told that we also have a Pottery Barn. We have gone grocery shopping and the supermarkets we’ve been to are outstanding. My favorite so far is an Indian franchise called LuLu's. There you will find items from all around the world.

We’ve arrived during Ramadan so there’s not much going on during the day. Running errands, setting up internet service and getting a local cell phone have been a challenge. The grocery stores open for brief periods in the morning, but everything else is closed until 9:30 pm. During the day the Muslim population are fasting and catching up on sleep. Once the sun goes down, they break their fast and indulge by eating out with their families and going shopping. The shopping malls, souks, stores and restaurant stay open until 2 am. Supposedly their shopping malls have excellent sales during this time. Much like in the States after Christmas except here it’s all month long.

We’ve also applied for the Iqama, which is an ID card issued to all living in Saudi Arabia. It normally takes 3-4 weeks to obtain it, but because it’s Ramadan it may take longer to get it. For now we carry a temporary card in case we get stopped by authorities or the religious police (Mutawa). In Saudi, women can only be in public with the opposite sex, if he is her husband, son, or close relative. The Iqama lets authorities know that Billy and I are married by the information on it. The same rules apply for Billy.

In public it’s mandatory for women to where an Abaya, which is a black cloak that goes over the clothes. I have borrowed mine from the Embassy for now and intend to buy one soon. In the Diplomatic Quarters (DQ) where we live I am not required to wear it, but I must still dress discretely because at times the Mutawa do patrol the DQ. The headscarf (Burka) is optional for Western women, but if the Mutawa see you without it on they will ask you to cover your hair. They follow Shari'ah Law (moral code and religious law of Islam) and have the right to enforce it. They do hold power in office and have deep roots in Saudi government. The good news is that the Mutawa are not everywhere and have no arresting power unless they are with a police officer. I haven’t seen one yet. In my opinion the best thing is to just follow the rules. Like the saying goes, when in Rome do what the Romans do.  

One of several parks in the DQ

The Diplomatic Quarters (DQ) where we live is huge. It’s bigger than Beaufort, SC where we used to live before the Foreign Service. There are many parks, a shopping area, an equestrian center for horseback riding, schools, sports facilities, enormous conference/party centers, shops, restaurants and a 10 mile walking/biking trail with views of the city.

All the embassies are in the DQ. There’s even a Brazilian Embassy here. Hope we can get on the guest list for carnival. We’re a short walk to the embassy which is nice. Across the street from our house is a beautiful gated park with lots of grass, palm trees, and water fountains. It’s definitely an oasis and quite peaceful. We usually go and walk Dante there.  We are also blocks away from the walking trail which we love.

 A few houses down is a simple mosque which looks like an adobe. There are mosques everywhere here. It’s sort of like living in the south, a Baptist church on every corner. Several times during the day, around the same time we hear the call to prayer from different mosques nearby. We find it to be quite beautiful and relaxing to hear. It’s such a pleasant thing for us that we like to open our doors just to listen to them sing. I’m sure this will wear off in time.

The Mission has accommodated us quite well, and everyone we’ve met have been extremely welcoming. This post was unaccompanied from 2003 – 2010, so I get a sense people are very happy to see families and children back.  The Mission is learning to make it a very family friendly post once again.  There are many activities to keep children, families and singles busy.  Outside of the DQ there is a big expat community too, people who have lived here for many years. I hear they are a wealth of knowledge. I can honestly say my first week here has been enjoyable. 

Less than 6 days before KSA

Hanging out at my favorite place: National Cathedral

It's crazy that 2 years have flown by. It seems just like yesterday when we moved to the area and my husband was traveling like crazy. At times it was hard without him, but I pushed on and adapted. After all it was only temporary. Now it's onto the next chapter. 

Sometimes being in the Foreign Service is like being in a movie. You know the plot and slowly the scenes start unfolding in front of you. So, here we are, less than 6 days until our departure. If all goes according to plans we'll soon be boarding an airplane with our dog, Dante and heading to the other side of the world to experience a new way of life for a couple years. Within a year in country we'll be bidding on our next post, and the beat goes on and on.

But let me get back on track and focus on the now. We've packed out and we're in temporary quarters and it's time to enjoy DC. We've been eating whatever we want, visiting with friends, biking/running on our favorite paths and trails. Yesterday we rented some bikes and road in the pouring rain. I felt like a kid; the smile on my face was ear to ear. For the time being it's been wonderful to enjoy these last few months in DC with my husband/ best friend.

Pack Out: July, Friday the 13th

shipping container

We are officially packed out and proud to say we have absolutely nothing in storage. Everything we own which is not much (75 items and a vehicle) is in this container.

Our motto since we've joined the Foreign Service is: less is more. One day when we're not moving every 2-3 yrs we'll have our dream home and fill it with memories and current trends.

Saudi Arabia: The Etiquette of Arabic Coffee

(I cut/paste the article below. Thought it was interesting. Hope you enjoy it too.) 

Regardless of whether you are an expatriate or a Saudi, if you are in the Kingdom you will experience the unique taste of Arabic coffee. Most Saudis grow up learning the etiquette which goes with the serving of Arabic coffee (kawa) but some expatriates may not know.

Serving Arabic kawa is both a production and a talent. To begin with kawa is first served to guests with priority given to the father and then followed by first-degree relatives and elders. In many large Saudi gatherings, formal or informal, guests may sit in rows of chairs or couches. Kawa should be served to the guests sitting in the front rows and/or to high ranking officials, leaders or elders. For example, sometimes Saudi Arabian television will feature news of King Abdullah greeting foreign delegations. If sitting, the King and others will be served kawa and a viewer can see firsthand the protocol associated with serving kawa.

As a matter of tradition kawa is served from the right side to the end and not served from the left side. Within a home the father should not serve coffee if his son is available to serve guests. Additionally, elder brothers should not serve coffee if younger brothers are present. An elder should not serve coffee if younger individuals are present in the gathering. The younger is always expected to serve the elder.

Source: http://americanbedu.com/2011/02/15/saudi-arabia-the-etiquette-of-arabic-coffee/

Who's Taming Who???

After a couple hours at the Folklife Festival we got on our bikes and stopped at Starbucks for an iced coffee before the trek home. We then got on Pennsylvania Avenue then Constitution, cut through the Lincoln Memorial and started heading over the Memorial Bridge.

I don’t know what happened because it all occurred so fast, but Billy’s bike got a little too close to mine and instead of me veering the bike to the opposite direction I went towards him. He sped up and I completely lost control of my bike. I saw the concrete and I knew it was going to be painful. Not only did it hurt, but I fell in the edge of the road of the Memorial Bridge towards oncoming traffic. All of a sudden my adrenaline kicked in and I scooped myself off the street and lifted my bike onto the sidewalk. Motorists slowed down and honked to make sure I was OK. I waved back utterly embarrassed but assuring them I was fine.

Billy was freaking out and all I could do was get on the bike and start pedaling before I gave myself time to reflect and completely break down and start to cry. Not only was I in pain, but pissed that I downed my brand new bike. Six hours later my entire body is aching and my Rotator cuff is tweaked. We’ll see how I feel in the morning, but for now I definitely need some Aleeve.

This photo does not do my pain enough justice.

Folklife Festival 2012

It was 100 degrees today, but that didn’t stop us from cycling from Arlington to the Smithsonian Folklife Festival at the National Mall.  This Festival is held outside every summer for two weeks, and it is an international exposition which honors traditions; old and new. Of course our time there was fabulous. We listened to Creole music, a Mariachi band, then walked around for a good bit and checked out many exhibits. Even though temperatures were high it was worth it. 

Aids Memorial Quilt

Mural at Folklife Festival

Mariachi Band