A Day at the Edge of the World

96 km northwest of Riyadh lies the magnificent sight of the Edge of the World. Here the cliffs of the Tuwaiq escarpment drop away giving splendid views over the plain below. We left bright and early from Riyadh with a small convoy of 2, 4x4  Toyota's, and a couple of drivers who knew how to get our group of 7 safe and sound to this spectacular place. Even with a GPS it would have been pretty hard for us to go solo the first time. Finding this place is a little challenging because it's off the beaten path. 

We drove for a good hour until we veered off the road onto gravel and sand. There were no signs or markers telling us where to go, only tire marks on the sand. We passed several camels out in the dessert. The only time I had seen a camel was at the Wild Animal Park in San Diego. Now here they were just out in the wild traveling in packs. 

We also saw goats being herded by the man below, who waved at us after I took his picture.

Long haired goats enjoying the shade.

Goat Herder

After a half hour trek in the desert we reached the Edge of the World which is part of the Tuwaiq escarpments that runs 800km from the south to the north central region of Saudi Arabia. There are many narrow valleys and wadis. The panoramic views are endless and the cliffs are breath taking. But watch out for your step, because one careless move could be deadly.

View of the valley from the top of one of the cliffs.

Edge of the World back drop

We spent a couple of hours exploring the area, hiking from one mountain peak to another. Once the sun started to warm up we got back into the SUV's and found a nice shaded area to have a picnic. Each one of us brought something to share so we had a wonderful array of yummy foods to chose from. Next trip out will probably be an overnight one, but we'll have to wait until the weather cools down some.

Breaking the Rules in the Stall

Up until yesterday it was Ramadan and one of the rules during this time is: no eating in public until Iftar, which is after 6:30 pm. Mid morning a girlfriend and I decided to go pick up our new Abayas, go to the shopping mall then head to the grocery store. I left the house having only eaten a bowl of cereal and a cup of coffee, which is the not the greatest sustenance. At least not when you're in Saudi during Ramadan. Most restaurants, food courts, cafes are closed during the day because it's illegal to eat in public during the month of Ramadan. You can't even have a glass of water in public.

Of course, I walk out of the house not prepared for the day ahead. By the time we get to the shopping mall, my friend and I are literally thirsty and starving. Plus, we still have to go grocery shopping, and you know how that is when you're hungry. As we're walking in the mall we miraculously see a bakery ahead and it says "OPEN". The smells from this place draws us like honeybees to the honeycomb. Before Iftar, we can't just sit at the cafe, order a nice hot pastry with a cup of coffee and eat. No way! You must take it to go and savor it later in the evening.

Our game plan starts to unfold. We order 4 croissants with cheese and a couple drinks to go. We head into the ladies bathroom and walk into one of stalls together. Thank goodness the bathroom was empty when we walked in. The doors to the stalls were of  regular size, so no one could sneak a peak. We locked the stall door, opened up the to-go box from the bakery and had a nice little lunch next to the toilet. We were both laughing on how crazy we looked. I only wish I had pictures to post.

Week 3.5

Fort along the wadi trail.

I've been receiving emails from friends and family inquiring how we're adjusting to life in Riyadh. It's been 3.5 weeks since we've arrived and so far so good. In my opinion this place is a hidden gem. Many people shy away from Saudi Arabia because they don't know much about the culture, religion, customs, etc..., but for me that is what drew me to this place. The mystique  and misconception of this place intrigued me. I've always been one to want see things with my own eyes and form my own opinion about a person, place or a thing.

The culture shock I've experienced has been minimal, if any. Then again I'm easy going and have an open mind. Of course there are things I see and hear that I don't always agree with, but I respect ones right to live the way they choose. Who am I to impose my thoughts and morals? What makes me happy may not make you happy, correct?

Despite the differences, for example: Women wearing an Abaya in public and not being allowed to drive; prayer 5 times a day; commerce closing for 30 mins during prayer time, and Ramadan slowing things down (which I find refreshing). I find Saudi very westernized. Most Saudi men and women are well educated and have studied or lived abroad. They are not sheltered from the outside world. There is nothing you can't find here. The grocery stores are wonderful and always stocked. The souks (flee markets) are filled with beautiful decorations, one more intricate than the other. The shopping malls have everything from H&M to Louise Vitton, and the shoes styles are endless. Since women have to wear Abayas here, they love their shoes and purses.

Mostly I have positive things to say; that's my personality. I tend to always look on the bright side. Of course there are negatives. I don't like to see all the stray cats in the DQ. I want to feed them all and take the little tiny kittens home with me, but that would be an endless battle. I also feel bad for the migrant workers who are usually from Bangladesh, Pakistan and India who are treated like second class citizens, yet are the foundation of the economic boom of this country. Recycling really doesn't exist here. Women's rights still lack some basic freedoms, such as the right to drive, or vote. But there are issues like these in many places, some even in the good ol' USA.

Now for the true confession of what I've been enjoying the most thus far...not having my husband traveling all the time and working only a block away from our house. We can have lunch together at the house or at his office. Dante is in a spacious house and loves going on long walks on the wadi. We've been meeting and socializing with some great people, and have even managed to make friends from Brazil. What is there to complain about? I would say, nothing.

High Tea in Riyadh

Taking in the view and showing off my first Abaya

I would have never imagined eating scones, finger sandwiches, and sipping tea at the Four Seasons Hotel, especially not the one in Riyadh. The women of the embassy were invited to an exquisite High Tea experience at the Four Seasons Hotel in the Kingdom Tower. This 41 story beautiful skyscraper is owned by Saudi Prince, Al-Waleed bin Talal. This building also houses a 5 story high end shopping center, a skybridge atop the skyscraper which is open to the public and provides a 360 view of the entire city of Riyadh. Needless to say it's definitely posh.

A glimpse of the desserts

High Tea was served in one of the master suites on the 38th floor. We were greeted by the hotel manager and 6 staff members. The suite was knock out dead gorgeous. On every table there were assortments of finger sandwiches, desserts, scones as well as a menu of different teas the staff could prepare for us. The chef was in the kitchen making everything from scratch. I tried fresh green tea with loose peppermint leaves and a Hibiscus Rose which was out of this world delicious. The finger foods were amazing, and the minute a table would start to look bare the butlers would replenish it with more food.


This was also a wonderful opportunity for the women to socialize and get to know one another a little more. Some have been here for a while and are about to depart, and others have just arrived. It's interesting to hear about people's background and how they came to Riyadh and where they are headed to next. In 1994 when Billy and I married I would have never imagined we'd be living in Riyadh and now here we are, having the opportunity of a lifetime, at least I think so. Cheers to that!

Itching to do Something ALREADY!

It’s only a little over week since we arrived and I am already wondering what the next course of action will be.  Once I get the Iqama, internet, cell phone, stock the house with groceries; shop some, go to parties; then what? We don’t have children and once our household items arrive and I get everything organized boredom will sink in.  

I’m already trying to be somewhat proactive and putting some feelers out there. There are many positions available for eligible family members (EFM) at the embassy. I’ve already been approached by a couple departments that have positions coming available. This is tempting because it’s something new.  

There is also a great need for skilled massage therapists, of course the expat community would be happy to be clients. Outside the DQ there may be opportunities to work at one of the lavish hotels such as the Ritz Carlton or Four Seasons in their spa department or even for the Royal family.

Which path do I take??? It will be interesting to see which direction life takes me in Saudi. I’m excited!   

Cats Galore!

I have never seen so many stray cats in my life. They are everywhere in the DQ, especially huddled around or in trash cans. Dante goes crazy when he sees them and literally starts to drag me just to get close. These little guys don’t mess around and will stand their ground. I see tons of little kittens wandering around too, and the other day I found one of the little guys dead on the sidewalk. I don’t know what happened to him or her, but it was sad to see. Supposedly there’s an organization that comes into the DQ to spay and neuter the cats. The way they keep track of the cats they've spayed or neutered is by clipping the tip of their ear. Ouch! Poor little babies. 

Iqama, Iqama, Iqama…

We finally got our pictures taken for the Iqama. I feel like the Iqama is the Holy Grail and we must kiss it several times when it’s finally in our hands. Without this Iqama we can’t seem to accomplish anything. In our case it’s been a pain because we can’t set up DSL at home or get a personal cell phone until we get it. Plus, all of our car and household items that were shipped over will not be cleared through customs until we get our Iqama.

So Much to Say…

Our plane from Frankfurt to Riyadh

We made it to Saudi! The flight was smooth and thankfully there were no issues with Mr. Dante “Dewey”.  An hour before landing at King Khalid International Airport I woke up and opened up my window shades on the airplane and all I could see was the vastness of the Arabian Desert. It is pretty amazing to see the sand dunes and small little towns in the middle of the dessert. I couldn't stare for long because the brightness of the sun was intense.

It’s been a little over a week since we’ve arrived and so far I’ve been pleasantly surprised. The terrain here is definitely different; a lot of sand and rocks. It’s very hot right now over 100 degrees every day. It’s sort of like being in a convection oven or in a dry sauna. At least it’s a dry heat and quite frankly it doesn’t bother me. There are days that are hazy because of the fine granules of sand in the air. On those days I breathe in the sand and taste it. The brightness of the sun here is extreme and I am making use of my sunglasses on a daily basis. Once October comes around the temperature will drop to 75-80 degrees during the day and at night we’ll have to wear a light winter jackets because it gets a bit breezy.   

The city of Riyadh is quite nice, especially downtown. Since it’s the capital of Saudi Arabia the city is kept very clean. Entertainment for the Saudis are shopping and eating, so there are tons of shops and restaurants. I have been surprised to see many American chains, such as Applebee’s, Cheesecake Factory, Dunkin Donuts, Crispy Creams, Starbucks, KFC, McDonald’s, and a few more I have forgotten. We still haven’t made it to the shopping malls, but we hear they are very nice. There’s an Ikea here and I’ve just been told that we also have a Pottery Barn. We have gone grocery shopping and the supermarkets we’ve been to are outstanding. My favorite so far is an Indian franchise called LuLu's. There you will find items from all around the world.

We’ve arrived during Ramadan so there’s not much going on during the day. Running errands, setting up internet service and getting a local cell phone have been a challenge. The grocery stores open for brief periods in the morning, but everything else is closed until 9:30 pm. During the day the Muslim population are fasting and catching up on sleep. Once the sun goes down, they break their fast and indulge by eating out with their families and going shopping. The shopping malls, souks, stores and restaurant stay open until 2 am. Supposedly their shopping malls have excellent sales during this time. Much like in the States after Christmas except here it’s all month long.

We’ve also applied for the Iqama, which is an ID card issued to all living in Saudi Arabia. It normally takes 3-4 weeks to obtain it, but because it’s Ramadan it may take longer to get it. For now we carry a temporary card in case we get stopped by authorities or the religious police (Mutawa). In Saudi, women can only be in public with the opposite sex, if he is her husband, son, or close relative. The Iqama lets authorities know that Billy and I are married by the information on it. The same rules apply for Billy.

In public it’s mandatory for women to where an Abaya, which is a black cloak that goes over the clothes. I have borrowed mine from the Embassy for now and intend to buy one soon. In the Diplomatic Quarters (DQ) where we live I am not required to wear it, but I must still dress discretely because at times the Mutawa do patrol the DQ. The headscarf (Burka) is optional for Western women, but if the Mutawa see you without it on they will ask you to cover your hair. They follow Shari'ah Law (moral code and religious law of Islam) and have the right to enforce it. They do hold power in office and have deep roots in Saudi government. The good news is that the Mutawa are not everywhere and have no arresting power unless they are with a police officer. I haven’t seen one yet. In my opinion the best thing is to just follow the rules. Like the saying goes, when in Rome do what the Romans do.  

One of several parks in the DQ

The Diplomatic Quarters (DQ) where we live is huge. It’s bigger than Beaufort, SC where we used to live before the Foreign Service. There are many parks, a shopping area, an equestrian center for horseback riding, schools, sports facilities, enormous conference/party centers, shops, restaurants and a 10 mile walking/biking trail with views of the city.

All the embassies are in the DQ. There’s even a Brazilian Embassy here. Hope we can get on the guest list for carnival. We’re a short walk to the embassy which is nice. Across the street from our house is a beautiful gated park with lots of grass, palm trees, and water fountains. It’s definitely an oasis and quite peaceful. We usually go and walk Dante there.  We are also blocks away from the walking trail which we love.

 A few houses down is a simple mosque which looks like an adobe. There are mosques everywhere here. It’s sort of like living in the south, a Baptist church on every corner. Several times during the day, around the same time we hear the call to prayer from different mosques nearby. We find it to be quite beautiful and relaxing to hear. It’s such a pleasant thing for us that we like to open our doors just to listen to them sing. I’m sure this will wear off in time.

The Mission has accommodated us quite well, and everyone we’ve met have been extremely welcoming. This post was unaccompanied from 2003 – 2010, so I get a sense people are very happy to see families and children back.  The Mission is learning to make it a very family friendly post once again.  There are many activities to keep children, families and singles busy.  Outside of the DQ there is a big expat community too, people who have lived here for many years. I hear they are a wealth of knowledge. I can honestly say my first week here has been enjoyable.